Cholila to Lago Puelo

Dario and Laura's hostel in Cholila

Dario and his wife Laura were also in the midst of ending their season at the hostel and

Lunch break at a creek crossing

preparing for the coming winter- Laura was a teacher at a local school and Dario guided ski trips in the winter. He had many stories to tell about different trips he'd led around the are, which is how we found out we could go a different way than walking the road up to where the Huella Andina began again- the official route had ended (again) at the north side of Parque Alerces. We were so excited, and it was a proposed area for a future section of the Huella to go through.

We got surprisingly specific directions about campsites and trails from Dario (he even pointed to them on our maps and was within 1.5km of each!) and headed off after a day of rest. I still wasn't feeling my best, and Fidgit thankfully agreed to stay another night. We walked a few kilometers back down the road the way we came, turned right and followed that road to and around Lago Cholila to begin our journey up the valley Dario had pointed out on our GPS toward Tres Picos (3 peaks).

We found a waterfall AND a way around it.

Morning frost is becoming the norm.

The next morning, we were able to follow the trail he had told us about up to where the valley opened up, then we were to follow along the stream to the end of the valley below Tres Picos, and there would be a campsite with a couple of blue barrels (extra food stash for local climbers who frequent the area). The valley was an interesting adventure. As we tried to stay out of the stream and follow along it, we ended up in and out of some massive overgrowth and leftovers of a multi-year-old fire. Towards the middle of the day, we were able to rock hop and follow along small animal tracks, but at the end of the day, I gave up and just slogged through the water to get to camp faster. It was cold, and the fall chill in the air didn't help much. Thankfully, we were able to have a fire in the fire ring we found once we found the camp- so cozy. And I got to thaw out my frozen feet and dry my shoes before bed!

One of the Tres Picos from the pass

Rock hopping down the valley

The next morning was cold. We were camped near the end of the valley below a pass, and the sun would not be on us until we walked closer to the pass. We packed up quickly, but our fingers froze anyway. With maps and GPS in gloved hands, we wanted to make sure we were going over the correct pass. Fidgit and I ascended the wide pass and were happy to be warmed by the morning sun. We descended the other side, following another creek, or arroyo, along a steep drainage that leveled out as we went down. I was able to keep my feet dry until 4pm. I would like to thank the rocks I hopped and my stubbornness (I hate wet feet). This valley was just as beautiful as the one we had come up, and we stumbled upon 'Camp Mysterioso,' as Dario had called it, right at quitting time. Making another fire in the fire ring at camp, we were able to dry out our shoes and socks once again. Dry feet always make me happy.

Also, my shirt tore on this stretch.

So happy for warmth!

BLACKBERRIES!

In the morning, we packed up and followed a trail we found along the side of the valley. We began to get concerned, because we kept going up and up, but then it leveled out and we passed a refugio and then a few kilometers later came out to a viewpoint with a sign at it- we had arrived in another National Park. Parque Nacional Lago Puelo had multiple signs that helped us get to the actual lake. From there we were able to follow a well-marked people/horse/cow path to the settlement of Disemboque, where we immediately were distracted from walking by massive blackberry bushes. Since there aren't bears or squirrels, the bushes were huge and rife with uneaten berries, so we stuffed our mouths before waddling off to find camp for the night along Rio Epuyen. We talked to a rancher who said there'd been a forest fire, and we were warned finding the Huella Andina into Lago Puelo (the town) may be difficult. My belly full of berries, I slept well that night.

Looking out at Lago Puelo

Some of the easier bushwhacking

Rising early the next morning, we packed up camp and walked through a light fog towards where we believed the continuation of the Huella Andina began. Thankfully, our GPS route was close to correct, as we shortly found trail markers for the Huella. Fidgit and I followed the markers, which led us steeply up out of both the valley and the fog. As the morning continued, we were generally able to find the trail markers and follow them- many of them were painted on rocks along the way, which helped in a newly burnt forest, as many of the trees were charred black and/or had fallen over. We lost the markings a couple of times, but quickly found them again.  At the top of the outcropping, we had been going up, we stopped and had some lunch, looking towards the town of Lago Puelo across Lago Puelo and figuring out what our route for the afternoon would be. The rancher was correct; the wild fire damage was worse on this side. After lunch, we continued following the trail markers, though they became harder and harder to find. Many of them we had to look back after passing the marked tree to see. Eventually, we lost the markers and gave up attempting to find them and just bushwhacked through the burnt forest. There were times that afternoon we were sliding down a steep hillside knee deep in ash from the fire, and we both ended up covered in black from pushing through burnt trees and brush. The going was slow, but we eventually made it out of the burnt forest at a beach, both worn out and definitely out of water. Grateful to be at the beach, we filled up on water and immediately drank a bunch as well. The sun was just setting as two Park Rangers walked up to us and informed us the Parque was closed and we would have to leave. Worn out from our day, Fidgit and I were still respectful and were able to explain our situation to them. The Rangers relented and told us of a place we could stealth camp a couple kilometers down the beach. They also informed us that the wildfire area we had just walked through had just happened last year (2015) and it was closed to hikers. Thankful and exhausted, we pushed to the area they specified and collapsed for a couple minutes before setting up camp and eating dinner. We then collapsed into the tent carefully, as to not get too much ash from the wild fire and sand from the beach in the tent.

Made it to the beach! Notice the ash.

I was sore the next morning from using upper body muscles I hadn't used in a while, and I'm sure Fidgit had some sore muscles as well as we walked into town. It was a bit further down the road than expected, but a lovely respite nonetheless. Dario had told us of a hostel there run by Club Andino Lago Puelo, the local chapter of the Alpine Club. It took us a while to find it, but eventually we did- thankfully we had stopped for a snack on the way into town. A bonus-we were the only people staying there! It seemed as though once the tourist season ended, everyone cleared out, and all of the parks shut down within a week, so quickly. There was a caretaker, a lovely young man who was studying music at the college who was able to stay for free for checking hostel guests in and collecting their money. We were able to get town chores done and relax for a bit. The nights were definitely getting chillier, so it was a nice respite to be indoors for a bit before we made our final push to Bariloche.

Bushwhacking sometimes drives us mad.

The Club's mascot/guard dog, Frida.

Club Andino Lago Puelo